Really Ruched Bubble Dress

Hello! It’s Sumo from Sumo’s Sweet Stuff! I was here not too long ago, sharing my Pretty Panels Peasant Dress, and I’m thrilled to be back again to share another dress with you. I went with panels again this time, but decide to ruche it up and make it a ruched bubble dress. Obviously girly, but do you expect anything less from me?

My girls are ALL in love with the dress. It is long and poofy – much like a princess dress. As you can imagine, princesses are huge at our house, so I knew this was going to be a hit.

Here’s what you need to get started:

– fabric – I went with the Déco Flower line from The Ribbon Retreat

– elastic thread

– sewing machine/accessories

The measurements I share today will be for a size 4T.

I started out by cutting the straps and the bodice. It was easy to measure the bodice; I just measured from Remi’s chest to where I wanted the skirt part of the dress to start. Then I made the width of the bodice about 1.5 times how wide she is from side to side. For 4T, I cut two bodice pieces to 5.5” x 17”.

For the straps, I made them 1.5-2 times longer than I wanted them to actually be (which you can figure out by measuring) and then the width is entirely up to you. I knew I was going to be shirring half of the strap to give it a ruffle, flutter sleeve feel. I originally cut the straps to be 12” x 8”, but then ended up cutting the width down to 5.5” later on as I was sewing.

So to summarize:

two bodice pieces at 5.5” x 17”

two straps at 12” x 5.5”

Next up is cutting the panels. Since they are going to be ruched, you can take your length measurement and double it. Or if you want shorter, you can only do 1.5 times. I went with double. I had four different fabrics, and cut two panels of each fabric. The width of the panels depends on how gathered you want the skirt part of the dress to be. For a size 4T, I cut the panels to w.o.f. for the length x 9.5” wide.

We are making a bubble dress, so we’re going to need an under layer to create the bubble. Make this 4-6” shorter than the length the panels will be after ruching them, and the same width as the panels will be once put together. My 4T under layer pieces were 18” x 36”.

Time to ruche! Start running gathering stitches along each long side of each panel. One side looks like this.

Two sides looks like this.

Then you need to make sure that the length of the panel is the length you are going for. Mine was 22”.
Adjust your gathers accordingly.

I’m going to let you in on a little gathering secret. If you set your machine to the longest stitch length, you can gather as you sew by holding on to the thread up top before it threads into the machine. Just make sure you have long tails in case you need to let some of the gather out. In my experience, it’s easier to gather it too much and let some gather out.
So much faster!

Do this for each of your panels – however you want to gather.

Figure out the order of your panels, and start sewing them together, with right sides together.

Soon you’ll have the beginnings of a lovely skirt. You’ll end up with a front panel and a back panel. I found it easier to work with them this way, even though they will eventually all be attached together.

Take one large panel, and sew one under layer piece to it, right sides facing in.

This is what it will look like all laid out.

Along the top edge of each panel and the bottom edge of each panel (which is the under layer) run a gathering stitch. Set the two large panels aside.

Take the two bodice pieces, and finish each long edge.

Then attach the two bodice pieces together, right sides facing in.

Turn the top edge under and hem it up.

Then sew the other sides of the bodice together, right sides facing in.

Take your two large panels, and sew them together, right sides facing in. Be careful not to sew over your thread tails for gathering. I stopped by gathering stitches about an inch in on each side to allow room for sewing the panels together.

Pull up the bottom edge of the under layer, and line it up with the top edge of the skirt. The wrong side of the under layer will be facing in towards the wrong side of the panels. (Sorry for the blurry picture!)

Turn your bodice right side out, and mark the middle of both the front and the back with a pin.

Place the bodice inside the skirt, with right sides facing together. Line up the side seams and pin together. Also pin the middle marks of the bodice with the middles of the skirt pieces. Pull the threads on both the skirt and the under layer until it is gathered evenly on each side. (Note: You could sew up the panels together before doing any gathering stitch, and just run one big long gathering stitch on each part. I prefer to break it up because I think it is easier to gather, and easier to make it even).

Sew the bodice and skirt together, being careful to catch all three layers. Finish your edge.

Turn the dress right side out, and this is what you should have. It’s coming along!

Now it’s time to shir up that bodice. This part is easy, but tedious.

Hand wind the elastic thread around bobbin. Not too tight!

Start sewing around the bodice. I made my rows about 1/4” apart from each other.

And finished!

Set the dress aside, and grab the strap pieces. Finish all four edges, then hem up all four edges.

Start shirring rows along the long edge. I did eight rows. This would give me a tighter strap across the shoulder, but still allow for a fluttery, ruffle sleeve.

If you can, try the dress on your little gal, and mark where the straps will go with pins or a fabric marker.
Pin the straps in place.

Sew the straps on to the dress, being careful to sew over the top of an already existing sewn seam.

Whew, you did it! Now you have this adorable creation that your little lady is going to love!

My three year old is notorious for not wanting to have her picture taken, but even she was excited to try this on and pose for me!

I love how the straps are tighter towards the middle, but flare out.

Seriously darling, right?

She was loving trying on this poofy, full dress.

I mean, come on, the smile says it all!

Thanks so much for letting me visit again today. I can’t wait to come back again to share more girly goodness from Sumo’s Sweet Stuff with you!